Walter Dhladhla/Agence-France Presse; Philip Treacy
The milliner Philip Treacy created the dramatic mask atop the Swarovski crystal ''spaceman'' suit from Michael Jackson's 1996 History Tour. Mr. Treacy on Sunday showed a series of hats and headpieces inspired by the legendary performer's stage costumes.
LONDON — Just the idea was a "Thriller": linking Michael Jackson's stage wardrobe, from the military buttoned jackets to his tiny-waisted trousers, with Philip Treacy, the milliner with an imagination as big as the late artist's voice.
Philip Treacy
Philip Treacy with his headpiece, inspired by this woolen tailcoat with military-style trim worn by Michael Jackson for a Vanity Fair shoot with Annie Leibovitz in 1989.
Philip Treacy
A Swarovski crystal priestess headpiece by Philip Treacy and Michael Jackson's black wool ''777 jacket'' with silver metal embellishment.
Mr. Treacy's challenge was to put together, on female models chosen for their African descent, the outfits from Mr. Jackson's co-designers, Michael Bush and Dennis Tompkins — and then create for each ensemble a hat to correspond in spirit or to tell the Michael Jackson story.
That could mean a curving metallic swoop of a headdress or hats decorated with childish playground pieces, as if from the famous Neverland ranch.
The show, prepared in the utmost secrecy for Sunday night, is to be considered a prelude to the sale of the Tompkins and Bush collection, scheduled by Julien's Auctions in Beverly Hills, California, on Dec. 2.
An emotional Mr. Treacy spoke of his first contact with the auction house when he went with his muse, the late Isabella Blow, to buy Marilyn Monroe's false eyelashes.
In a memorial to Ms. Blow and to the late Alexander McQueen, the famous sparkling Michael Jackson glove is to appear from under a veil of black hanging leaves, representing a tribute to his friends who have died. A headpiece in the shape of a ship with billowing sails, rigging and masts — as well as Swarovski sparkles — was created because the last hat that Mr. McQueen asked for before his death was an ivory ship.
"Living with these clothes in a vault has given me emotional energy and I believe that the hats are a futuristic way of showing the most beautiful clothes I have ever seen," Mr. Treacy said. "I was thinking of Napoléon's words 'with baubles that men are led.' These clothes were designed to fill a stadium of 80,000 people. Yet they are made like haute couture."
Mr. Bush, whose partner passed away last year, was behind the theatrical use of metallic martial decoration — actually made from gilded plastic. The stage wear designer is scheduled to publish his book, "The King of Style: Dressing Michael Jackson," with Insight Editions on Oct. 30.
The items destined for the auction, which have been exhibited in Chile and in Ireland, include Jackson's Captain EO shirt, the black Spandex outfit from his "Scream" video and the breakaway suit he wore during his BAD tour in the late 1980s. The auction house says a portion of the proceeds will benefit Guide Dogs of America and the Nathan Adelson Hospice in Las Vegas.
These are the clothes that inspired Mr. Treacy to relive his own emotions about Michael Jackson's life and music — and to present them to the world not as a static wardrobe but as vibrant artistic treasures.
"I find it very humbling how the world has embraced this work as an art form," said Mr. Bush, who came to London from Los Angeles for the show Sunday.
"The fact that Michael Jackson had it on will draw people, but I saw the look in Philip's eyes at the detail. We made handmade outfits, like Philip is hands-on with a piece of metal, fabric or a feather," he added.
The piece with the longest history is not the red "Thriller" jacket but the jacket with police badges. It has been 25 years since it was first seen on the BAD tour.
Mr. Bush explained that his "boss," as he called Mr. Jackson, took a very close interest in all the outfits, even ordering bespoke clothes for Bubbles, his pet chimpanzee.
The performing artist would surely have appreciated the artistic work of Mr. Treacy, who made each headpiece individually with a similar desire for perfection.
"It's the most exciting show I have ever done. It is a gift to have the models wearing the clothes — Michael Jackson did better than anyone the sense of the extraordinary," said the milliner.
While Mr. Bush said before the show at the Royal Courts of Justice in London started: "I feel that I am going to touch the sky."
By SUZY MENKES 17 Sep, 2012
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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/17/fashion/treacys-thriller.html?partner=rss&emc=rss
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